Tuesday, July 3, 2012

How to Capture Firelight Photos

Do you ever stay up late roasting marshmallows in the dark? Have you ever had a bonfire so big and hot that you could see perfectly clearly, if a little orange? Do you add those little color packets to your fire to get interesting colors?


What is it about fire that you want to remember and maybe add to your scrapbook? Is it the patterns the sparks make as they rise from the flames? Is it the dancing of the flames? Is it the amazing variety of color? Whatever your reasons for taking a fireside photo, you need to have the techniques to do it effectively.

I love taking photos of fire for two reasons. First, it stretches my photography skills and I learn something new every time I try. Second, it seems to be a big part of every camping trip and deserves to be documented.

Taking fire photos isn’t as easy as it may look. While there might seem to be a lot of light, your camera may not see it the same way you do. And your camera certainly doesn’t see the motion of the fire the same as you do. It’s then your job as the photographer to tell the camera how to see.
Let’s look at a few examples.


If you’re using a point-and-shoot camera, your first reaction may be to put your camera into night mode. After all, it’s dark outside, right? Yes, it’s night but what happens to your camera in night mode? Because your camera expects a low light situation when you tell it to work in night mode, it opens the aperture up all the way, thereby creating a shallow depth of field. It also slows down the shutter speed to allow more time for the light to hit the sensor, thus creating the opportunity for blur to appear in your scene. Usually, you would use a tripod at night to reduce blur but because the fire is constantly moving, you won’t be able to prevent it. The end result of using night mode on a campfire is that you’ll get a lovely photo of a blurry campfire.

Instead, if you want to remember some of the details of the fire like the hole that keeps popping open or the flash of green from the piece of copper pie, then you’ll need to do something different with your camera. You could try sport mode, as it does the opposite of night mode, but your fire is probably too dark for that. You could try portrait mode as it will open the aperture but only have a medium shutter speed. This option would capture more details than night mode, but it may not be enough.

1/80s shutter speed

1/250s shutter speed

The real trick to capturing a great fire photo with all of the shadows that come from the flames is to use one of the creative modes. These are Aperture, Shutter Speed or Program modes. Ideally, what you want to do is open the aperture to let the light in, but keep a faster shutter speed to freeze the motion. You may need to increase the ISO (sensor sensitivity) of your camera to get good exposure. I prefer to work in shutter speed mode because I’m usually taking photos of my kids, and the same principles apply to fire. They’re both constantly moving, so you need a faster shutter speed to capture the details. I generally try between 1/60 and 1/15000 of a second for my fires. It really depends on the fire. The difference between 1/80 and 1/250 of a second is clear in these photos.

1/1000s shutter speed

And when you bump up to 1/1000 of a second, wow!
What about some more creative photos? I love to take photos of sparks and I have some pretty fun photos to show for it.


If you want to try some of these photos, here’s what I usually do: I put the camera into Shutter Speed or Program mode and set the shutter to stay open for three to ten seconds. I then focus and open the shutter. While the shutter is open, I’ll play around with moving the camera in different directions and patterns. Depending on the light from your fire, you may need more or less open time.